Istanbul is a beautiful crossroads in many different ways--east meets west, old meets new, classic meets modern. We were lucky enough to visit with one of my closest friends, Ferrah, who happens to be Turkish. Her family gave us some great pointers on where to stay and what to do beforehand, and once we arrived they welcomed us with open arms and plenty of advice to guide us. It was so nice to have a local's perspective on such a large, busy city.
Where to Stay: We rented an apartment in Cihangir, an bohemian, artsy neighborhood with a fantastic antique district. It is centrally located five minutes from Taksim Square, but it is mainly residential and feels so secluded. If you want to live like a local, I would definitely recommend staying here. If you prefer to be closer to the temples and other attractions, Sultanahmet is older and more historic than the area around Taksim--but also busier and more touristy. Wherever you choose to stay, it's very easy to get from one area to the other using the tram system or a taxi.
Where to Eat: We ate breakfast nearly every day at Cuma Cafe in Cihangir--a cute and trendy cafe with outdoor seating and great food. Sur Ocakbasi is a super casual restaurant that we heard about courtesy of Anthony Bourdain. The food was amazing and authentic, and we seemed to be the only tourists there. On the more elegant end, we had a fantastic and beautifully plated meal at Nicole. The food is presented in a multicourse tasting menu, set to a gorgeous background of floor to ceiling windows overlooking the city.
Where to Shop: Look for unique home decor, fine and costume jewelry and spices at the Grand Bazaar. Cihangir has quite a few wonderful shops if you are in the market for antiques.
Where to Play: Nevizade Street, near Taksim, has plenty of fun bars and lounges for a more casual night out. Reina is a well known club filled with locals and tourists alike, and is a lot of fun. 360 is a restaurant that morphs into a clubby lounge at night, and as advertised provides a beautiful 360 degree view of the city from a wrap-around balcony.
