Uruguay has so many amazing areas to explore. We really loved the capital, Montevideo. La Rambla is set between the beach and the city's perimeter. Walking along it, there's a view of the city's modern highrises alongside scruffy apartment buildings to one side. To the other, locals are sun bathing, working out or drinking mate--a drink even more essential to a Uruguayan than iced coffee is to a New Yorker.
Along the eastern coast of the country, there is the ever popular Punta Del Este. I have often heard it compared to the Hamptons of South America, and perhaps the residential areas are, but to me the central parts of the city and it's beaches felt more like an uber-chic Miami. High season is Uruguay's summer--December to February--when many Uruguayans, Argentinians and Brazilians spend time in summer homes in the area. As in any seasonal town, the months bordering this time offer the same beautiful weather but less of a scene, so when you go may depend on what kind of vibe you are going for. The best clubs vary from year to year, with many open for only the season, so find out from a local where the best scene is at the time. If you're looking for somewhere more relaxed, Rocha is an adorable surf town close by with gorgeous, quiet beaches, and a more bohemian, laid back attitude. The area is beautiful and feels almost untouched, and it was easy to discover a deserted stretch of beach to enjoy all to ourselves. You can take a day trip here from Punte del Este (bring cash, much to our dismay there was not a working ATM to be found in the entire town).
Where to Stay: In Montevideo I fell in love with Pocitos, a posh yet charming historic neighborhood relatively close to the city center. I could have spent hours strolling the streets, just looking at the absolutely gorgeous townhomes in the areas tucked away from the Ramblas. There aren't too many hotels to choose from, but the Pocitos Plaza Hotel is a modern, centrally located option. In Punta Del Este, we adored the Hotel L'Auberge, which felt like a stay in someone's gorgeously appointed summer home. The vibe is luxurious yet relaxed, the perfect combination for a beachside escape.
Where to Eat: Locals eat quite late--particularly in Punte Del Este, where 11 p.m. can be on the earlier side for dinner. In Montevideo, start your night at Cake's, a bar-cafe hybrid with an antique feel. We had an incredible dinner at Tandory, a restaurant in Pocitos with a phenomenal food menu and wine list. It is an intimate fusion restaurant (not Indian, as the name may suggest), where the chef designed us an amazing custom tasting menu. For lunch or a snack, try "muzzarelas," a Uruguayan style pizza. We had delicious slices at Pizzería Trouville, also in Pocitos. In Punta Del Este, the beach clubs in Playa Brava serve lunch, and the harbor area has many restaurants with good food and an upbeat vibe for dinner. For breakfast, get some carbs in and visit L'Auberge for the most phenomenal waffles ever.
